Out There :: Foodie Fool for Love

Out There typically dines out six out of seven nights a week. We're more out than in because we're representing at receptions and openings for our job, and we're pleased to be invited to restaurant and hotel openings because we love the hospitality industry. But we're not sure we'd qualify as a "foodie," because to be a "foodie," don't you have to know how to do more in the kitchen than boil water?

LOL, we do stay home and broil a pork chop once a week -- so not kosher -- and we'll share our recipe at the end of the column. Anyway, we're thinking foodie thoughts this week because we attended a passel of food and wine events, and went to a screening of "Le Chef," the new foodie comedy starring French screen notables Jean Reno and Michael Youn. Reno ("La Femme Nikita") plays a veteran chef who faces off against his restaurant group's corporate-minded CEO. When management tries to sabotage Reno's Michelin star, he brings in a younger chef (French actor, singer, comedian Youn) who specializes in molecular gastronomy. Directed and co-written by Daniel Cohen ("Two Worlds"), the movie is light fare, pitting old-school vs. new-school culinary techniques, and you can guess how it all works out.

The newly refreshed Big 4 Restaurant at the Scarlet Huntington Hotel has decidedly old-school vibes, from its American comfort-food menu to its crisp white tablecloths and gentleman's-club decor. The fine folks at the Big 4 had us up to their place on Nob Hill in order to sample the menu, and although we're no relation to the big four 19th-century SF railroad-tycoon families for whom it's named -- the Huntingtons, Crockers, Stanfords or Hopkinses -- we felt right at home. New executive chef Kevin Scott is offering classic American cuisine with a focus on seasonal Bay Area ingredients and current culinary trends, and he pulls off the blend of tradition and contemporary sophistication with flair.

Our dinner at a corner table nestled under historic photos of classic San Francisco started with baked oysters in caper butter, mushrooms en croute and crispy artichokes. For our main course, Pepi enjoyed the daily special, which was Loch Duart Salmon, while OT devoured the incredible Mediterranean Fish Stew with lobster, prawns, Ling Cod, littleneck clams, mussels, Pernod Saffron Broth, aioli, and crostini. Dessert was decadent, profiteroles made with caramel gelato, chocolate sauce, and Marcona almonds; Earl Grey creme brulee; and peach tarte tatin with creme fraiche.

For libations we chose a craft cocktail of barrel-aged Loretto shaken up with Barsol Pisco, cherry liqueur, yellow chartreuse and orange bitters, and had no regrets. Our dapper waiter Ron Henggeler regaled us with Big 4 history, his own gay history including meeting Harvey Milk, and his photography and artwork, including the restoration of panoramic photomurals in the hotel's banquet room and in the Masonic Auditorium across the street.

Yes, it's been a feast of foodie delights recently, including a cocktail reception at the Press Club in which OT mingled with many charming concierges and other hospitality professionals while sampling the new line of appetizers from Taste catering; and a serious wine & food tasting at Hakkasan SF, where we considered two white and four red wines with each of four family-style courses: mild (dim sum), savory, sweet and spicy. That's a total of 24 tastes, and we were told by the wine professionals at our table, "We don't spit." This was good with us, as we think spittoons are gross, and we're not at all deterred in our delectations by the lift that alcohol gives us. The rule of thumb at Hakkasan is that all the wines auditioning for its extensive list must complement each flavor group, and it was fascinating to hear how the wine experts arrived at their decisions.

Now here's the low-down on how to prepare those Pork Chops Roberto from our own kitchen: Find thick and nicely fatted loin chops, preferably butterfly-split and still on the bone. Dry them by patting with paper towel, then coat both sides with coarse salt & freshly ground black pepper. Broil under high heat, three-four minutes each side, in a pan to reserve the juices. Serve up piping hot, sided with cold applesauce. Drink with a cold white wine such as a Riesling. Don't spit.