Redefining the Runway: How Queer Designers Like Telfar Clemens Are Reshaping Fashion’s Future

Fashion has always been more than clothing for LGBTQ+ communities; it is a declaration, a shield, and an ongoing conversation with society. In 2025, the fashion world is witnessing a powerful shift as queer designers steer both aesthetics and ethics, making the industry more expressive, inclusive, and politically resonant.

Gone are the days when Pride fashion was limited to rainbow motifs and party wear. Today’s queer fashion is a tapestry of personal histories, political statements, and global influences, curated by designers who bring their full selves—and their communities—into every collection. As noted by cultural observers, “Pride fashion has always been about more than sequins and rainbows. In 2025, it’s a political statement, a celebration of self-love, and a canvas for identity” .

Of all the trailblazers shaping the current moment, Telfar Clemens occupies a singular space. Born in Queens, New York, and the child of Liberian immigrants, Clemens launched his eponymous label Telfar in 2005 with a mission: “It’s not for you—it’s for everyone” .

Clemens’ breakthrough came with the now-iconic Telfar Shopping Bag, colloquially dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin.” Unlike traditional status symbols, Clemens’ bags became coveted for their accessibility, affordable pricing, and refusal to gender their owners. They sold out repeatedly, spurring drop notifications and Instagram frenzies during the COVID lockdown . The bag, seen everywhere from subway platforms to stadium concerts, embodies Clemens’ ethos: functional, stylish, and available to anyone.

But Clemens’ influence goes far beyond a single product. His unisex collections, which blend streetwear ease with high-fashion sharpness, consistently challenge the industry’s gender binaries. “Telfar Clemens…created clothing that transcends gender, offering unisex and gender-fluid options that allow individuals to express themselves authentically,” notes GLAAD, emphasizing his role in expanding fashion’s boundaries .

Telfar’s brand is notable for its radical approach to accessibility. Unlike luxury labels that build exclusivity, Telfar’s products are designed to be attainable. Clemens has collaborated with mass-market brands and even introduced “bag security” programs, ensuring anyone who wants a bag can get one—an act of democratization rarely seen in fashion .

This approach resonates deeply with queer communities, who have historically been marginalized within mainstream fashion. By prioritizing inclusivity, Clemens challenges the traditional gatekeeping mechanisms of luxury fashion, opening the industry to new audiences and narratives.

Clemens is part of a broader wave of Black queer designers reshaping fashion’s future. Alongside peers like Pierre Davis of No Sesso, Rich Mnisi, and Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture, Clemens brings intersectional perspectives to the runway . Their work is not just about aesthetics; it is about visibility, empowerment, and the assertion of identities often sidelined by mainstream fashion.

For example, Pierre Davis’ No Sesso brand is renowned for its inclusive sizing and celebration of gender nonconformity. Davis’ collections are “known for their inclusivity, body positivity, and celebration of gender nonconformity,” with designs that feature bold patterns and intricate embroidery .

Adebayo Oke-Lawal’s Orange Culture in Nigeria similarly blends masculine and feminine elements, creating fluid garments that challenge gendered expectations in African fashion. Oke-Lawal’s collections, filled with vibrant prints and bold colors, advocate for LGBTQ+ visibility on a continent where such expressions remain fraught .

The current queer fashion moment is about more than individual designers; it is about collective cultural change. Pride 2025, for instance, has seen a rejection of mass-produced rainbow merchandise in favor of expressive, often upcycled garments that reflect personal stories and political resistance . On the streets, attendees mix platform boots with bare chests, mesh with leather harnesses, and pastel buzzcuts with bucket hats—a testament to creativity that refuses to be boxed in.

This is echoed by indie brands like Official Rebrand, led by MI Leggett, which transforms reclaimed clothing into expressive gender-neutral pieces, and by Berriez and Phlemuns, which remix nostalgia and streetwear with body inclusivity and a refusal to be categorized .

The success of queer designers like Clemens has a ripple effect across the industry. By occupying prominent platforms and collaborating with mainstream brands, these creatives foster environments where LGBTQ+ models, stylists, and artists can thrive. Their collections often feature diverse casting and storytelling, ensuring that the runway looks more like the world outside—diverse, dynamic, and unapologetically queer.

Influencers and personalities, such as Alok Vaid-Menon, Parker Kit Hill, and Sushant Divgikar, amplify these messages on social media, modeling gender-fluid aesthetics and championing brands that prioritize inclusivity .

Fashion’s future, as sketched by Telfar Clemens and his contemporaries, is one where self-expression is unbounded by gender, size, or tradition. As GLAAD notes, “The collections of Black queer designers are a testament to the power of self-expression. Each piece tells a story, encouraging wearers to embrace their individuality and express themselves freely through fashion” .

As the industry continues to evolve, supporting queer designers—and the communities they uplift—is essential. Their work is not only transforming wardrobes but also driving conversations about identity, belonging, and justice, ensuring that fashion remains, at its core, a tool for liberation.